I delved under Shrewsbury to taste genuine Mexican street food and enjoy a warm welcome
Our food and drink reporter James Vukmirovic takes in the tastes and sounds of a new Mexican street food restaurant in the depths of Shrewsbury town centre.
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When you think of Mexican restaurants in the UK, you think of cantinas full of light materials, the sounds of Mariachi music and more than a few sombreros on display.
It can lead to a feeling of being surrounded by kitsch and objects that are more a tribute than actually authentic, and that can also translate to the food.
In many cases, the food can have a Tex-Mex feeling to it, cooked and prepared to more local tastes than to the actual authentic feeling in Guadalajara or Mexico City.
However, if you venture down Greendragon Lane in Shrewsbury town centre, you’ll see a sign for a very new and very unique restaurant which takes the tastes of Mexico and plates then out in a place which feels comfortable and without that kitschy feeling.
Elephant Underground has been a part of the Shrewsbury culinary scene since the end of last year, opened by chef Liam Tinsley after the success of the Elephant Crossing in Ironbridge and dedicated to the idea of proper, traditional Mexican street food.
As you walk under the sign and enter the building, you’re met with a warming feeling and a great smell which permeates the staircase leading down to the restaurant, past the first set of tables set up near the entrance.
A step through the doors provides you with a view of a big and well-stocked bar, smiling and friendly staff and a wall not cluttered with pictures and keeping a nice minimalist feeling.
That feeling is extended to the main restaurant area, full of tables and with a nice lighting set on the ceiling and windows affixed to the walls the only clutter in the place, plus some nice tunes playing over the stereo system and not too loud either.
Taking a seat, I chatted with the venue manager Ally Stockwell about the restaurant, with her enthusiasm for the food and the place very infectious. She also showed me how some of the cocktails were made alongside the barman, who made the Orbit cocktail, an enticing blend of orange liquor, raspberry vodka, citrus and apple juice and topped with a huge, vapour-filled bubble.
It looked good and smelt tremendous, but as usual, driving duties meant no alcohol for me, which Ally made sure wasn’t an issue by whipping up a non-alcoholic Mai Tai, topped with a flaming passionfruit (luckily, blown out, lest it set my beard on fire).
