Travel: The Galápagos Islands
Our usual advice when first venturing into the unknown is to use the touristy hop-on-hop-off bus to get your bearings and mark off the places that you wish to spend more time in, writes Carmel Stewart.
Clearly, a trip to the Galapagos doesn’t include that option. Visits to the islands are strictly controlled with only two boats and a limited number of visitors allowed to land at any one time.
After a huge amount of research, we picked the Canadian-based CNH Tours as our preferred company. They offer small boats, separate cabins, on-board meals and an all-encompassing itinerary.
But all the research in the world is not going to tell you about your travel companions. There were 14 of us on our trip and they can be neatly divided into two groups: those we were happy to spend time with and those we were not. The best advice we can give you on this score is stick with the like-minded, avoid criticising the others and under no circumstances whatsoever push them overboard, however tempting that option may be.
Our trip began in the Ecuadorian capital of Quito where we stayed at the very quaint Hotel Mansion del Angel. It smelt like chocolate but was not altogether user-friendly – more like the home of an eccentric aunt who has gathered together vast numbers of large gaudy items over years of travel which she now displays randomly in her old colonial home. Think Miss Marple meets the Antiques Roadshow and you’ll get the picture.
From Quito we flew to Baltra, the Galapagos airport. From there we travelled to Santa Cruz via bus and ferry. On arrival we were loaded onto another bus for our afternoon of sightseeing and our first introduction to the magnificent giant tortoise. It was a surprise for us that they were everywhere, not just at the nature reserve but crossing the roads and generally roaming around.
Later that day we boarded our boat – the Samba – where the crew were friendly, the beds comfortable and the food plentiful – three square meals a day with snacks, fruit juice, tea and coffee in between. All the cabins have two bunks with the bottom one being slightly wider than the top and all have en-suite facilities – small but perfectly formed. Thanks to the comprehensive itinerary sent to us by CNH Tours we knew just where we were going every day.
Our trip took us round the southern islands of the Galapagos. If you read up on the various cruises, you’ll find some who say the north is better but, truth to tell, every island was a delight in itself, every island offered something different and every island had a history all its own. Without being too corny, it was a real privilege to step onto the shore of every one.
Our travels took us to Floreana where we saw flamingos, turtles and numerous birds. We snorkelled at Champion Islet and, in the evening, enjoyed the sunset while kayaking. From there we sailed to Hood Island at the southernmost tip of the Galapagos. Better known as Isla Espanola, it is believed to be four million years old and is guarded by seemingly fierce sea lions on the sandy white beach and giant iguanas further inland. Every group of sea lions comprises a number of females and their pups, protected by a very large bull who ploughs up and down the shore line roaring. The iguanas, by contrast, totally ignored us; arms round each other they lay peacefully on their rocks in the sun.
Here you may well get your first glimpse of the blue-footed booby as well as the Nazca booby which is less colourful than its cousin but no less interesting for all that. Later we saw red-footed boobies.
On the following day we had an early start in order to see the bird life of San Cristobal. All the boobies are there but their thunder is slightly stolen by the magnificent frigate bird which puffs out its red pouch to attract a mate. Later that day we snorkelled at Kicker Rock and, later still, for those with sufficient energy, there was a mile-long trail hike at Punta Pitt on the north eastern side of San Cristobal.
And that was pretty much the pattern every day – visiting the islands, admiring the wildlife, snorkelling, walking, eating and sleeping.
On our final morning we had an early start for a final landing on North Seymour to walk among the blue-footed boobies and colourful frigate birds. Then back for breakfast, fond farewells and disembark at Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz for the transfer to the very pleasant Hotel Fernandina.
While visitors are free to roam Santa Cruz visiting the Darwin Station, the turtle breeding centre and the numerous tourist shops, the protected areas of the Galapagos Islands can only be accessed with a qualified, licensed naturalist guide.
A certain level of fitness is needed to enjoy the full expanse of the islands. Every visit requires a leap from the boat to the dinghy to the shore and back again. None of the day trips are arduous but the ability to walk for several hours in the sun along occasionally rocky terrain is a must, as is respect for the environment. Littering, loitering or general loudness would warrant walking the plank, at the very least.
Factfile
See www.cnhtours.com for more details.
Every booking is personalised so the cost will depend on your requirements.
An eight-day/seven-night Galapagos trip will set you back about £1,500pp.
A couple of days in Quito with a day of organised sightseeing adds about £250pp.
Flights to and from Baltra are included but not those from home countries.
My KLM flight to Quito via Amsterdam was £1,410.
Check out www.notdeadyettravel.com for more travel delights.
