Express & Star

Get a taste of city life

Madrid is one of the world's great cities. From its historic royal palace and art galleries to its cafes and tapas bars, it has something for everyone.

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Like any capital city, it has its business centre and transport links to the rest of the country – Madrid is virtually in the centre of Spain – but it also has a unique character all of its own.

And now it is just a quick hop away thanks to direct new flights from Birmingham by budget airline Norwegian, with services every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday.

A mid-week break or long weekend is ideal to get a flavour of this remarkable city. But don't try to do too much. There is so much to see and do it can prove overwhelming.

Tune in to the way the locals – the madrilenos – run their day. A relaxed start with a light breakfast and some excellent coffee, a morning to take in the sights followed by a substantial lunch. The most important meal of the day and – thanks to a strong pound and weak euro – unlikely to break the bank.

Then comes siesta – but not too long. Just 40 minutes will set you up for the afternoon and the long night ahead, advised the guide on my trip. If you can run to it – at around £60 an hour for a small group – two or three hours in the company of an experienced guide can give you insights into this city it would normally take years to pick up.

Our guide came through Insiders Madrid (www.insidersmadrid.com) and introduced us to a string of delights, from coffee and delicious cake at the 120-year-old La Mallorquina cafe to visiting Capas Seseña, one of Madrid's most historic and fashionable shops.

Spanish food is hugely under-rated. This is the home of the amazing buttery, nutty Iberico ham and the bocadillos de calamon – crusty rolls stuffed with deep fried squid rings – they are tender and delicious.

Everywhere you go there is something to eat, whether it is the sweet and gooey nougat, or torrijas – slices of good Spanish bread, soaked in milk, deep fried and sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon.

But show discipline. You need to leave space for lunch, especially if you go for the Madrid speciality of cocido completo at a stylish little spot like Cafe Central. Restaurant by day and jazz club by night, its lunchtime menu of two courses with wine, with dessert or coffee to follow, was just 12 euros apiece – less than £9.

Cocido completo is a stew of chickpeas, meat, chicken, cabbage, Spanish sausage, leek, potato and carrot, with the cooking liquid served as the first-course soup. You need a 40-minute siesta after that.

It's not all about food, though. Anyone in need of retail therapy can shop till they drop in Madrid, from markets like El Rastro to stylish little boutiques or the department stores. Or you could combine shopping with food at the indoor markets, such as the Mercado de San Miguel.

And then there are the art galleries. Most people have heard of the The Prado, a huge gallery that is home to works by El Greco, Velázquez and, of course, Goya. But anyone interested in modern art must visit the Reina Sofia, home to Picasso's huge Spanish Civil War painting Guernica, while the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza contains works from Rembrandt and Rubens up to Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Juan Gris and Monet. Amazingly, all three museums are within 15 minutes walk of each other along the Paseo del Prado.

After all the food, art and shopping, the Parque del Retiro provides welcome relief. This huge park is a favourite spot for madrilenos at the weekend and full of attractions.

Or you could just wander the streets and squares of the city centre. Madrid is incredibly walk-able. If you need to, there are always cabs and the Metro, but driving in Madrid is probably not recommended.

And then there is the nightlife. It is the evening when Madrid really comes to life. After a day at work or at the weekend, everyone appears to head out into the city centre touring the nightspots and the tapas bars.

If your are looking for something extra special, however, there is always Restaurante Botin. Founded in 1725

A packed couple of days, and there wasn't time to tour inside the enormous royal Palacio Real, or visit the hallowed turf of the city's two major football teams, Real Madrid and Atletico Madrid. Maybe next time.

And a repeat visit to Madrid is now an affordable reality, as the new 'no frills' service from Birmingham Airport with Norwegian is offering one-way flights at off-peak times for as little as £22.40 per person. Hotel costs, of course, vary on where you stay but a few minutes on a website like Trivago or Lastminute.com can turn up deals to suit every pocket.

People talk about the romance of Paris, or the buzz of New York, but I'm in love with Madrid. And I can't wait to go back.

By Simon Penfold

Simon Penfold travelled to Madrid from Birmingham International with Norwegian Air. Visit www.norwegian.com/uk for more details. He was a guest at Radisson Blu Madrid (www.radissonblu.com/pradohotel-madrid)

For more details on the area visit www.insidersmadrid.com

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