Express & Star

Food review: Take a chance on a wild food ride at Six by Nico

Six by Nico kept the Midlands waiting. The fine dining concept restaurant started in Glasgow, and then opened in Edinburgh, Manchester, Dublin, a few in London, Leeds and Cardiff.

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Dessert - Six by Nico style

In fact, 12 Six by Nico’s opened before Brummies got a chance to join the party.

Wildly successful elsewhere, perhaps it will say more about our culinary tastes than the concept if its Colmore Row restaurant is not a winner.

The concept is simple, the six-course menu is exactly the same every day for six weeks. And then it totally changes.

It is the brainchild of Scottish chef supreme Nico Simeone. And it has left restaurateurs scratching their heads wondering why they had not thought about it first.

Six by Nico opened its doors last November with a “chippie” themed menu, which was very much inspired by a Scottish chip shop, not a West Midlands one. Not one sign of a kebab or Southern Fried Chicken but a deep fried Mars bar was on the menu.

But for our latest visit, the theme was Alice in Wonderland, The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. This is where I admit I’ve never watched the film, let alone read the book.

Six by Nico, Colmore Row

Six courses, and I guessed one would be rabbit, but what of the rest? I liked the fact that the enemy of many a good meal out for me – choice – had been removed.

I always seem to pick the wrong thing, and end up with chronic food envy staring at my partner’s choices. However, there is no choice at Six by Nico. Unless, you want a side, or pick the vegetarian option.