Travel review: Prague, Czech Republic

To be fair, this is normally accompanied by a description of how beautiful a city Prague is. Which indeed it is. Thousands of years of history, architecture and culture can be found in these streets of the capital of the Czech Republic.

And it is also fair to say that Czechs love their beer. Our tour guide announced with some pride that latest figures showed the Czech Republic drinks the most beer in the world at 143 litres per head. Britain did not make the top 10!

But this particular guide, Jan Macuch, was actually leading a Food Lover's Guide to Prague tour. Now I like beer, but I do love my food and this tour visits some of the most interesting, charming and authentic restaurants dotted around the city.

We went to the gems only the locals know about – literally a taste of the real Prague.

Our enthusiastic guide Jan loves the food with a passion but he also loves his home city and his country. As we casually walked from food stop to food stop we were given an insight into the nooks and crannies of the city that was far from the usual tourist beat.

The tour started in a gingerbread 'house', a quaint little business run by two sisters-in-law that was wall-to-wall gingerbread. Their biscuits are made to authentic recipes and include the mouth-watering plum jam and tasty poppy seed kolache.

Next stop was two neighbouring traders. On the left was Sisters, making traditional open-faced sandwiches which are smaller than the Scandinavian offering with quite exciting fillings from local ingredients including a particularly nice beetroot spread. Next door was the local artisan butchers with the speciality Prague ham and tasty sausage cured to traditional methods.

Dipping through the alleyways of the Old Town we went to Restaurant Zvonice – possibly the best kept secret in Prague. Set inside a belltower, with heavy beams, a cosy atmosphere and city views, this was a very special experience. Here we tasted the Old Bohemian Soup, a thick, creamy meal with an unusual sausage twist.

From here we moved to the hidden courtyard cafe of Style and Interier. This began as an interiors shop but was so popular because of the coffee it provided that it also developed as a garden cafe. It is a haven of calm in the New Town.

The tour, which lasts over three hours, concluded at Cave Louvre, an imposing building that has been in business since 1902. Here we went for a true traditional dinner with Czech dumplings (much lighter than the British ones), braised beef and cranberry compote. It was followed by a tasty slice of apple strudel.

It may be worth pointing out that Eating Prague Tours also launched a beer tour, Brews and Views, on July 19.

Beer and food aside, I have always wanted to visit Prague and was delighted when Czech Airlines began flying from Birmingham Airport to Vaclav Havel airport in April. This historic city was now just a two-hour flight away and there was no reason not to indulge my curiosity.

English is widely spoken in Prague so it is easy enough to find your way around the city visiting some of the amazing sights and indulging your taste buds. The frequent trams make getting around the city very simple. It was only 110 koruna (about £3) for a 24-hour ticket.

But if you really want to learn about this proud city which in recent decades alone has undergone occupation, socialism and finally independence a guided tour is advised. There are so many breath-taking buildings, must-see attractions and historic sites that a tourism office guide can offer the highlights and a potted history of Prague, particularly if time is a constraint.

All visitors must, however, go to the Old Town and the Old Town Hall – even if you just stand in the square and watch the iconic astronomical clock.

Built in 1338, the town hall has been extended over time although only the southern wing of the original building has been preserved as the entire northeast wing was damaged on the very last day of the Second World War on May 8 1945. You can't miss the building because of the eye-catching astronomical clock – and the crowd below. The ornate clock has adorned the facade since 1410 and was considered one of the wonders of the world in the Middle Ages. As well as the astronomical and calendar faces, the mechanism reveals the 12 apostles which appear at two windows on the hour. Figures on the side of the clock also come to life during the procession of the apostles.

The rooms inside the town hall are as opulent as you might expect with the building now used for ceremonial purposes and the Lord Mayor. But if you want a more unusual, slightly creepy, visit go down to the Romanesque and Gothic cellars.

You wander through several Gothic houses and across a medieval alley. Interestingly, the Romanesque cellars were originally closer to ground level. During the 13th century the ground floors became cellars as the land was raised to stop flooding. These cellars were later used as a prison with legendary executioner Jan Mydlar having carried out his bloody work there in the early 17th century. Names can still be seen carved out by the prisoners in a former dungeon.

Having seen the secret underground world of Prague, you then want to head up the impressive tower to get a bird's eye view of the city. The tower, which had to be reconstructed after the war, offers the most spectacular views.

Hours can happily be spent pottering around the Old Town. Every way you turn there is another amazing building, artwork, little shop or bar to distract.

As well as the Old Town, there is of course the New Town and the Jewish quarter. Helpfully there are six tourist information centres across the city including a large office at the town hall. Top tip: There are a LOT of cobbles in Prague, sensible shoes are advised.

A number of impressive bridges cross the Vltava River into the city but the most famous is Charles Bridge which was built by the Czech king simply to connect his castle with the Old Town. Sitting on 16 arches it is flanked on both sides by impressive statues.

Charles IV was born 700 years ago – the anniversary was in May – and his mark is stamped all over Prague. He helped Prague become the imperial seat at the very heart of Europe with his vision and ambition.

Prague Castle is one of his greatest legacies. The most impressive part is the Gothic Cathedral of Sts Vitus (who gave his name to Saint Vitus dance), Wenceslas and Adalbert. Adjacent is the courtyard lined with such buildings as the Old Royal Palace, the All Saints Chapel and the Black Tower. A highlight is the stunning Golden Gate entrance.

To get a different and leisurely take on the city, take a cruise along the Vltava River. I enjoyed a dinner cruise with Prague Boats which included a delicious buffet, musical entertainment and open top seating if you just want to absorb the sights. On the left bank is the Castle and on the right bank the Old Town which are spectacular viewing in the evening.

Labelled the City of a Hundred Spires, Prague has inspired poets, artists and, composers. Mozart wrote Don Giovanni in Prague. And it came as no surprise to discover that the city has been the backdrop for countless film-makers. Just some of the movies filmed there are Mission Impossible, Casino Royale, Les Miserables, Amadeus, The Bourne Identity and The Illusionist.

Even our hotel had been the setting for a TV show, Arabela, apparently a big hit in the eighties.

There is accommodation to meet every budget but I was lucky enough to opt for the unique Parkhotel Praha. A recent refit has seen the hotel return to its roots and restore the sixties feel. It is described as being in Mad Men style which is quite apt – it is a contemporary hotel but still seems retro.

A 10-minute tram ride from the Old Square and next to the National Art Gallery, the 237-bedroom hotel is a striking building and offers a bright airy ambience. Dining facilities include the P7 pizzeria while the breakfast served in Buffet7 was such a vast and varied buffet it would be a challenge for even the heartiest appetite.

Originally built in 1967, the hotel is still undergoing refurbishment to restore its 'iconic' status of almost 50 years ago. The rooms are more than comfortable with city views and there is a fitness suite and sauna. It also has a natty gift shop with the perfect 'traditional' gifts for my children.

A short drive from the airport, could it be any easier to enjoy a break in Prague? You can fly from Birmingham with Czech Airlines up to five times a week.

Top tip: To get your trip off to a flying start at Birmingham Airport visit No 1 Lounge. Free wifi, hot and cold food and drinks in luxurious surroundings the holiday starts straight away. The latest tourism campaign for the city runs under the slogan Oooh Pure Emotion Prague. I certainly did say 'oooh' and 'aaah' quite a lot wandering around this beautiful city.

And the food and drink were pretty good too.

By Diane Davies